Chinese Internet users have criticized companies such as H&M and Nike for boycotting the use of Xinjiang cotton based on lies. Look from cotton product and industry itself, Xinjiang cotton true quality how? Less part of the international brand "patronize", Xinjiang cotton can be affected by how much? How to improve the discourse power of China's cotton industry? Economic Daily reporters interviewed relevant departments and enterprises on these issues.

Cotton industry concerns the overall situation of the national economy

Cotton is China's main cash crop, textile industry raw materials, an important strategic material. According to experts from the National Cotton Industry Alliance (CCIA), China will consume 7.99 million tons of raw cotton and import 2.1586 million tons of cotton in 2020. From seed, planting, processing, distribution to textile, clothing and trade, the whole industrial chain of cotton involves tens of millions of industrial workers, cotton farmers and other employees, with an annual output value of about 6 trillion yuan.

Cotton industry is related to the overall situation of national economy, and Xinjiang cotton plays a pivotal role in China's cotton industry. Data show that in 2020, China's cotton field area is 47.548 million mu, of which Xinjiang is 37.528 million mu, accounting for 78.9% of the country's planting area; China's cotton output was 5.91 million tons, accounting for 23.8 percent of the global total, of which Xinjiang's 5.161 million tons, accounting for 87.5 percent of the national total and 20.8 percent of the global total.

From 5,000 tons in the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China to more than 5 million tons today, Xinjiang's annual cotton output has multiplied by a thousand times, which is the happiness of countless cotton farmers and the hard work of countless scientific research workers. At the same time, also benefit from Xinjiang cotton in quality, cost and policy and other aspects of the unique advantages.

Xinjiang's climate and land resources conditions are suitable for cotton growth, large-scale planting is conducive to mechanized production and picking. According to the National Bureau of Statistics, Xinjiang's cotton yield per unit area in 2020 was 137.5 kg/mu, 10.6 percent higher than the national average. According to experts from the National Cotton Union, Xinjiang's total cotton output, unit yield, planting area and commodity allocation have ranked first in China for 26 consecutive years. The pattern of "the world's cotton depends on China, and the Chinese cotton depends on Xinjiang" has taken shape.

"The 44 production standards mentioned by the BCI are actually very low. For example, no H6 powder or DDVP is used. Cotton production in Xinjiang already met the standards 30 years ago." Cao Huiqing, head of the cotton farmers' branch of the China Cotton Association, said cotton companies in Xinjiang have long joined the Stockholm Convention and their production standards are much higher than those of the BCI.

Cotton in Xinjiang is in short supply all year round

"Xinjiang cotton generally before the Spring Festival can be clear." Cao Huiqing said that Xinjiang cotton in the national cotton textile enterprises reputation is very good, color, strength, length, macronair value and other indicators are outstanding performance. General textile mills with cotton, Xinjiang cotton to use more than 65%, and then with other cotton or imported cotton blend. Xinjiang cotton is not short of orders, there is no BCI certification, will not cause cotton backlog in Xinjiang.

China is the world's second largest producer of cotton, is also the largest consumer of cotton. Domestic cotton especially Xinjiang cotton, perennial supply exceeds demand. China National Textile Industry Council (CNTAC) said that Xinjiang cotton is a high-quality natural fiber raw material recognized by the global industry, which can better meet the rigid consumer demand for cotton textiles and clothing around the world, and is an important raw material guarantee for the sustainable development of China's textile industry.

Liu Qiuhua, general manager of apparel product center of 361 Deo (China) Co., Ltd. told reporters that 361 Deo will use cotton yarn a lot in T-shirts and sweatshirts and pants. According to preliminary statistics, the raw material of cotton yarn is more than 7500 tons every year. "We are very concerned about the source link, cotton production capacity, quality and our products have a great relationship." According to Liu Qiuhua, all the cotton used in 361 Departments is domestic, 90 percent of which is cotton from Xinjiang.

Qu Jing, vice-president of Huimei Fashion Group, says 70 per cent of the fabrics used in its Inman cotton and linen clothing brand are domestic, of which 80 per cent are made from Xinjiang. Souyute Group Co., Ltd. 's apparel and supply chain business is dominated by domestic cotton, the company said. Sunvim Group Co.,Ltd. says its main raw material is cotton, of which it uses more than 20, 000 tons a year.

Innovate science and technology to build high quality domestic cotton brand

In the face of international standards, people are asking, why can't we form an industry alliance and grow what cotton the mills need? In 2016, led by the Cotton Research Institute of the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the National Cotton Alliance for the integration and cooperation of the whole cotton industry chain was established with 208 enterprises and public institutions in China.

Founded more than four years, only GuoMian alliance synergy innovation and achievements in science and technology promotion, high-quality cotton production base and supply chain construction, the quality control standards and products for the whole tracing system establishment, GuoMian "CCIA" brand cultivation promotion and cotton "tertiary industry" depth fusion mechanism structure and so on have done a lot of work, has achieved fruitful results.

Zhang Ming qing, secretary of the party working committee of the national agricultural science and technology park in changji, xinjiang province, and executive vice president of the national cotton union, said that "zhongmian641", the demonstration variety of high-quality long-staple cotton introduced from the national cotton union in the park, was tested in changji area. The public inspection results show that the fiber length and strength of "Zhongmian641" raw cotton are close to 32, which is 4 grades higher than the main quality of Xinjiang cotton and completely surpasses the standard of Australian cotton.

"Rolai signed a strategic cooperation agreement with China Cotton Institute last year. With the support of China Cotton Institute, Rolai will rent tens of thousands of mu of cotton fields in Xinjiang in the next step to provide high-quality cotton for the brand." Luo Lai home textile co., LTD. Engineer Gu Yi division introduction.

The person in charge of the National Cotton Union told reporters that in the future, the Alliance would take the creation of the national cotton "CCIA" brand as the breakthrough point, run through the whole cotton industry chain, establish a traceability system from CCIA seeds to CCIA clothing, and promote the transformation of China from a cotton planting and textile power to a cotton planting and textile power.